Ageism is never in style

[Written by Hannah West]

[Illustration by Grace Elder]

“I don’t feel old, I have never felt old.  I think you can dress any way you want to”, said 89-year-old Instagram sensation Baddiewinkle during a Refinery29 interview in 2016.  Baddiewinkle didn’t become the face of Missguided and gain 3.8 million Instagram followers by ‘dressing her age’ – this we know for certain. Instead, she became a social media megastar by sporting neon crop tops, multi-coloured fur, and platform boots that I would never even attempt to pull off. In recent years Baddie has been a part of the evolution of an ‘ageless’ fashion. By this, I mean that she has, within herself, totally debunked the socially prevalent idea that older women ought to ‘dress their age’ – a phrase which is really just a polite way of saying that women should conform to a societal norm that they don’t necessarily agree with. (more…)

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Between Bodies: shifting the perspective of the ideal male beauty

[Written by Saamkyu Smart]

[Image by Sophie Thornton]

After generations of impossible female beauty standards, men are starting to feel the same pressure to conform to a very specific form of beauty. Actors and models of the same body type are being constantly pushed into the spotlight as the ideal form of male attractiveness– the lean yet ripped look. Although these body types give off the illusion of being healthy and natural, the process by which models and actors gain them is quite the opposite. It’s a job to be lean and muscular, and for the majority of the time, it’s a temporary one. Additionally, when the standards are set so high, it’s hard to not feel any social pressure when you’re not even close to muscular.


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Covering just the pretty things: why does the press forget about sustainability when talking about fashion?

[Written By: Elsa Lindström]

The fashion weeks take over the press coverage every spring and autumn with magazines rushing to praise their latest collections and show off their best looks. These weeks are considered the most important part of the year, at least if you trust Vogue, and the industry basically revolves around them. But in the midst of the newest trends of capes and leather dresses, little attention is given to the ethical issues of fashion, such as designers environmental aspects or workers’ rights.


Continue ReadingCovering just the pretty things: why does the press forget about sustainability when talking about fashion?

Style Icons: Charlotte York Goldenblatt

[Written By: Morgan Laing]

Who, between the years 1998-2004, could we identify as the owner of the shiniest hair, the best wardrobe, and the most hopefully romantic outlook in the whole of Manhattan? Charlotte York Goldenblatt, that’s who. For as long as Sex and the City graced our screens, Charlotte York Goldenblatt (formerly known as Charlotte MacDougal, though we don’t talk about that now. Her first husband was fine in some respects, but the way he allowed his mother to interfere in every aspect of his life was hella weird) trotted around NYC in some of the chicest ensembles you’ve ever seen – and yet Carrie was supposed to be the unequivocal style icon? Let’s discuss this for a second.


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[Written By: Annegret Maja Fiedler]

[Illustration: Lara Delmage]

It is 8:00 am. I am hunched in front of my mirror, concealing acne scars and the bags under my eyes. I then fill in my brows, apply blush on the apples of my cheeks, and swipe mascara on to my lashes. I dab some highlighter under the brow bone and inner corners of my eyes, and instantly look more awake. This routine takes less than 10 minutes of my morning and allows me to feel put together for a day of lectures, labs, and then work in the afternoon.

“You don’t need makeup to feel good” – I do not care, because I feel good.


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Dress To Impress

[Written By: Amelia Oakley]

[Photographer: Elena Roselli]

In Early Modern England the colour, fabric and material of clothes denoted the wearer’s rank, status, and position, and was enforced by English law. While this is not a legal obligation in Britain, many countries and religions still enforce clothing by law. In France, fierce debate surrounded the banning of niqabs and burqas. Under a decree by the French Prime Minister, François Fillon, women are banned from wearing the niqab in any public place. Veils covering the face are illegal virtually anywhere outside women’s homes, except when worshipping or travelling as a passenger in a car. Likewise, in North Korea, citizens must adhere to strict fashion laws. They must style themselves with officially endorsed haircuts and clothing with zero affiliation with the West – especially when it comes to brands and logos. In the UK, however, we have an extraordinary amount of freedom when it comes to choosing our style and how we wish to present ourselves. In some ways, it is a privilege to have a personal style, and it reveals a lot about our identity.


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Homeboy (or girl) gone like…get it

[Written By: Ruarí MacManus]

So just over a month ago Complex released what they thought would be just another episode of their popular YouTube series, “Sneaker Shopping with Complex”. Little did they know that this show would spawn the most quotable meme in recent memory. The premise of the show is simple; the aptly named Joe La Puma shows celebrities around high-end trainer stores, discusses their fame, strokes their ego a bit and then they flex their wallets on exclusive kicks. This episode features model and socialite Bella Hadid, in New York’s KITH — owned by sneaker savant Ronnie Fieg. So far nothing out of the ordinary — but then she opened her mouth. (more…)

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High Fashion, Street-Level

When I was a teenager, I was taught that the outfits created by a small coterie of fashion designers set the trends for the upcoming season. The prevailing theory at the time was that the styles displayed on the catwalks of Paris and London, New York and Milan would dictate Britain’s fashion for the next few months; that these outlandish (and expensive!) creations would trickle down to the high street stores in a more palatable, affordable and practical form. There are obvious flaws in this programmatic view of fashion – just think of influential subcultures, historic movements like the Swinging Sixties, even the potential for popular culture to sway fashion. But, more or less, it proved truthful for many years. The road from exclusivity to mass market was pretty straightforward. High fashion dominated. Street style did not.


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Cultural Appropriation

Right now you might be thinking another article on cultural appropriation? Haven’t there been enough already? Short answer: no.

It’s 2017. I am still serving drinks to “Native Americans” on Halloween at work despite the current ongoing Standing Rock protests. I am still seeing authentic designs of various indigenous ethnicities being crudely rehashed “ethnic” and “tribal” for financial gain. I am still seeing black friends being reprimanded for their “dirty looking” hair whilst designers such as Marc Jacobs are kitting out white models with a near-identical hairstyle and profiting from it.


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Style Icons: Kate Bush

Nobody ever perfected the feminine as ethereal quite like Kate Bush. An influence on innumerable modern pop stars and style icons – Florence + the Machine, Bat for Lashes, Bjork and St Vincent, to name but a few, Bush is an icon of music, style, and feminism all at once. Incorporating costume wholeheartedly into her music videos and performances, she used her attire as an equal arm of her unbounded creativity as any other artistic medium. Her iconic, enormous wavy brown hair and angelic Wuthering Heights white dress cemented her place in pop culture iconography, and informed my relationship to femininity and performance more than any other artist.


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Space Age

The 1920s had the flapper; post-WWII saw the rise of Christian Dior’s New Look, but when it comes to novelty, it seems that the 1960s win the ‘otherworldly’ prize with the emerge of Space Age fashion. With the Cold War in full swing, the beginning of the 60s carried with it a strong futuristic spirit; people wanted to reach for the stars, and for the first time in history this was not just a possibility, but a certainty. Though space travel was hardly an innovative idea (one look at George Méliès’s 1902 film A Trip to the Moon will tell you differently), all at once it seemed accessible, and as politics reached new heights, the arts scene was quick to follow.


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The Little Black Dress

Fashion, like all art, evolves. New ideas come into play each day, and designs which were once the height of fashion are now considered dated, unoriginal, and antiquated. Though, among the array of fleeting fashion trends, there are some looks which always remain the same. Most iconic of all, perhaps, is the Little Black Dress.

This classic silhouette has forever been a necessity to the fashionista. Simple, understated, and cool, it is the epitome of simplicity in design. Having been introduced in a time of overstated, elaborate fashion, the Little Black Dress came as a breath of fresh air in 1926 when Coco Chanel swept it onto the scene. After years of decadent styles, where designs utilised every material under the sun, the lack of adornments allowed this piece to become timeless. Though this was not, of course, the first black dress, it was Chanel’s minimalist modernity that made the dress ubiquitous. Through the years there has been a steady evolution of the style, each ‘era’ of dress fitting in with the current trends whilst also remaining bare enough to not cement it to a particular period.


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From Ball Gowns to Combat Boots: Legacy in Design?

In our epoch of eclecticism, how do creative directors in fashion balance between the old and the new? Erika Koljonen investigates.

The fast-paced realm of fashion, like the rest of the world, has recently witnessed a period of notable turbulence. Fashion houses now change their creative directors more frequently than I have minor breakdowns over my impending graduation with an English Literature degree. Interestingly, it is the French houses that have seen the most upheaval – the French being rather notorious in their habit of being sticklers to traditional design and keeping to the roots of the houses. Raf Simons’ departure from Dior after a short period of at its head shocked many, as did Alber Elbaz’s from Lanvin. And it’s not just the French: Balenciaga, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan … the list goes on.


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Read more about the article Review: Gray’s School of Art Fashion Show 2013
Debbie Mcleod, Persimmon A Selective Colour

Review: Gray’s School of Art Fashion Show 2013

Debbie Mcleod, Persimmon A Selective Colour
Debbie Mcleod, Persimmon A Selective Colour

For some the degree fashion show feels like the end but last week GUM attended the Gray’s School of Art Fashion Design Runway Show and there was certainly a sense of action and motivation. Only a few days after obtaining their degree, finding out that two of their graduates are nominees for the Scottish fashion awards and many finding out about Masters degrees and jobs, before the show even started there was already a great sense of achievement.

The evening kicked off with a collection from Laura Sherriff. The collection paid great attention to detail and set the tone for the night. The next hour was a display of workmanship and new gen design.

Persimmon, A Selective Colour was the sleek show stopping collection by Debbie Mcleod. Her designs were minimalistic and masculine although the use of mohair knit softened the collection. Her use of colour was most interesting as the oranges against the gray, black and white proved both tasteful and modernist. When asked about her collection McLeod stated it was: “A simplistic outlook…blending each design into the background as if it were its own creation”.


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Review: Saunt & Sinner “The Broken Doll” AW2013 Collection Launch Night

5bO8SZHNik2j-X2NAzzOHNPE9vh1mTEIpGzI29C4FhI,Fd1t6CbBFGQJ9lf4kAe2C59QVj0a76EWcHHckK-kIXI,rt39E3yKUHMWu7hGSgIEroMrn1jCwIq3w6eJRwoufbYNew kids on the block Saunt & Sinner showed us how it’s done at the launch of their first collection on Friday night. Design duo behind the label, Emma Noble and Toni Roddie, set up the brand after graduating in Fashion Design from Grays School of Art in 2012. “The Broken Doll” capsule collection, inspired by Glasgow-born painter Heather Nevay, showcased a stunning array of luxury womenswear pieces which hinted towards both the sweet and the sinister.

The Corinthian Club set the perfect scene for the show, with fixtures draped with the duo’s limited edition 100% silk scarves. Dolls hung eerily above tables, dressed in mini-versions of the labels designs. A fitting homage to this evening inspired by Nevay’s portrayal of sinister children.

Before the show began the crowd were treated to a beautiful and haunting fashion film produced by Jamie Vincent Gillespie, which again reflected the collections duality as it played with the idea of innocence and purity tainted by a twisted dark side. It had a decidedly wicked edge, and set the mood perfectly for what was about to follow in the show.


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Read more about the article Q&A: Rehab Clothing
Photos by Cammy Henderson (styling caroline smyth, model is victoria middleton)

Q&A: Rehab Clothing

GUM caught up with Rehab Clothing, Glasgow’s hot new sellers on the scene, to talk about their new business venture and passion for vintage!

Photos by Cammy Henderson (styling caroline smyth, model is victoria middleton)
Photos by Cammy Henderson (styling Caroline Smyth, model: Victoria MiddletonTell us a bit about Rehab Clothing – who are you and when did you start up?

Hi Steven, care to introduce yourself?

“My name is Steven Dick; I graduated with a 2:1 Business Honors degree in June. Rehab Clothing was formed in October; we operated in a pre-launch stage throughout October and November selling via pop-up shops and individual listings on Marketplace. This was key to network, establish a contact list, build relationships and implement a clear direction. We launched officially on the 21st of December via our online marketplace shop.”

Where did the idea come from, how did you get started and why?

“I decided to go travelling across Italy and South East Asia for four months after studying; it was during this time I decided to start up Rehab Clothing when I returned. I had an interest in starting my own business from my studies and always maintained an interest in the fashion industry. As a keen vintage shopper myself I spotted an opportunity in the marketplace where we could add value.”

What do you sell?

“We sell unique vintage wear, everything from leather shorts and trousers, this seasons must have monochrome, 1980s dresses, vintage tees and blouses, vintage sportswear and military shirts and jackets.”


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Fashion Update: Rockabilly

What started in the 1950s with the merging of rock-and-roll and country (or “hillbilly”) music by artists like Elvis Presley and Johnny Cash gave rise to a rebellious way of life and a fashion sense known as rockabilly that’s still in vogue today. As the popularity of vintage clothing continues to rise, designers are offering up new fashions that give off a retro 50s-and-60s vibe.

Modern rockabilly style harkens back to an era when people dressed up every day, a time when women didn’t leave the house without hose and make-up and men wore jackets to work. Today, the rockabilly look has taken on an edge. It’s glamorous, outrageous and, most importantly, fun. Here’s how you, too, can rock today’s trendy rockabilly look.

Tops and Bottoms Rockabilly clothing can be difficult to describe, but you’ll know it when you see it. Think bombshell. Go for a bold and sexy look with polka-dotted halter tops or tie-at-the waist blouses paired with tight black capri pants or a pair of cropped, cuffed, tight-fitting jeans. Bust out of a slinky sweater worn with a slim-fitting skirt, and don’t forget to add a pair of heels. For the summer months, form-fitting retro shorts or a saucy little sailor suit might be in order. Dresses are a staple of rockabilly wardrobes, and a must-have for anyone who wants to pull off this look. Choose sexy, form-fitting, vintage-look dresses in bold colors like red or hot pink and patterns like black-and-white polka dots. The bolder, the better. Stripes, checks, gingham…rockabilly chicks get noticed. Dresses with bigger, flared skirts can be rockabilly, too. Look for one with an off-the-shoulder or halter top. If it shows off a tattoo or ten, even better.


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Read more about the article Interview: Chouchou
photo by Chris Park

Interview: Chouchou

The Glasgow fashion scene is bursting at the seams with creative talent, so it’s no surprise that Italian-born designer Silvia Pellegrino decided to start up her own label here. Chouchou creates unique hoods with a couture feel which appeal to the city’s fashion-forward, individual style. Unsurprisingly, Pellegrino’s range of Hollyhoods have attracted quite the following, and GUM were lucky enough to feature one of her striking pieces in our latest issue. Flick to page 20 of our ‘Blackout’ feature to see the Hollyhood Rose in action. We caught up with the designer again to talk hoods, hoods, hoods!

photo by Chris Park

How did Chouchou get started?

It started when I was an intern for a company called Kucoon in LA in 2007, that was one of the best experiences of my life, I met so many talented designers. I find in California there are a lot of inspirational people, so working for Kucoon was the best thing that could have happened at the time, and when the internship was over the designer Andrea Spratt asked me: “do you want to stay?” and I was really tempted to just say yes. At the time I was so determined to start something of my own so I went back to Italy and invested my savings into the creation of our first S/S collection, and this collection for one reason or another was going to be shown here in Glasgow. So, at some point I decided it would be a great idea to move to Scotland altogether because I always had great connections here. I moved here in 2009 and started the company here in 2010 and it just grew from there

How did you come up with the name? What does the name Chouchou mean?

The name came  from another trip that I did in South Africa, passing through Paris. The word Chouchou came out and my French friend explained that it’s a term used with a person you love. Chouchou means loved one. Once I was doing a market in Italy and this now famous photographer came up to me and said: “What’s your company name?”, and I said Chouchou and he said to me, “Wow that’s so much fun”, because in Naples when you see a hot girl on the street and you know her name you simply go: “sciu’sciu’!”. (read as Chouchou)


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Review: The Pokey Hat and Jeffrey Campbell Launch

 image by Olivia Vitzakova
image by Olivia Vitzakova

This Tuesday, GUM attended a highly anticipated fashion show organised by online fashion boutique the Pokey Hat to celebrate the arrival of the Jeffrey Campbell shoe collection into the Pokey Hat stores. The fashion show was in trendy new club FabrIQ on Queen Street. After being seated in front of the catwalk, I looked through my goody bag, which featured candy jewellery – my favourite kind. The show started with a bang, dancers with black lace dresses twirling and whirling on the catwalk so close you could touch them. Then came the models wearing Pokey Hat clothes; a collection of both vintage and modern clothing by Scottish fashion designers. The models were wearing Jeffrey Campbell shoes with its characteristic wavy shapes and studs. It was difficult to know where to look as both the clothes and shoes were stunning. Our favourite piece was a woollen hat with spikes which is a must have this winter, making you feel warm and look cool at the same time. Who said fashion can’t be practical?

There was also a raffle to win a pair of Jeffrey Campbell shoes, I bought a ticket but didn’t win. I almost ended up crying in the corner, but the fact that my feet were already bleeding from a pair of ordinary heels almost made me grateful I didn’t win.


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Review: Nightwalk

If you like your fashion dark and sexy with a hint of crazy you’ve come to the right place. Nightwalk is more of an experience than just a fashion show, which is evident from its setting in The Arches, Glasgow’s most charismatic music and club venue.

After this year’s Autumn/Winter Nightwalk was rescheduled due to a blackout we were excited to finally witness what up-and-coming Scottish designers had to offer. From the neatly tailored shirts by the Swedish-born Jennie Lööf, or the entirely white collection of dresses entitled ‘White Noise’ by Betty Spoke, to playful latex creations by Betsabelle, each of the 14 designers had a unique vision. Womenswear clearly dominated the show however admirers of menswear (and male models!) were not disappointed by male design duo Nothing and several colourful designs by Brian Chan and a few other designers.

But how did the participants feel about the fashion show? GUM spoke to  Brian Chan who recently graduated from The Glasgow School of Art about his fashion label and first impressions of Nightwalk. Brian’s exquisite and inventive creations were one of the highlights of the show with his Paper Collage Waistcoat and Handbag Sculptures definitely channeling the avant garde. Brian describes his work as: “bold, daring, edgy, lively and trendy as well as offering an energetic galactic experience.” He focuses on the relationship between Art and Fashion, saying: “I am extending my art onto garments, a mode of direction to exhibit my work in a much broader perspective boosting my imagination and creativity.” His interest in art definitely comes across in his boldly coloured pieces, often decorated with splashes of paint and with paintbrushes used as accessories. My favourite piece was a red not-sure-if-dress or a fashion sculpture. As the model in red turned on the catwalk you could see that all the red stuff was coming from a paint can. Very clever. I’m surprised Lady Gaga hasn’t snapped it up yet.

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Bold Souls: Pop-Up Fashion at it’s Best

It’s November. Which can only mean one thing in the shopping world: sharpen your elbows, you’re going to need them. Yes, Christmas fever is almost upon us. But what if we told you that this year there’s no need to sweat it out on the high street, fighting over mass-produced items and spending hours in seemingly endless queus? Bold Souls Stardust has come to save us all.

Bold Souls is a fashion Pop-Up, created two years ago by Glasgow-based designer Silvia Pellegrino and blogger Jonathan Pryce of Les Garçons de Glasgow and Another Garçon. Offering a unique shopping experience the event brings a plethora of local designers together under one roof, and give shoppers the chance to buy one-off items and personalised pieces. GUM spoke to organiser Silvia to find out how Bold Souls was conceived:

“What we wanted to do was to promote local talent and expand the community, meet more people that we could work with, meet more customers. We wanted to have a very seamless, open and fresh place where people could go to find unique fashion instead of buying high street and mass made fashion, that we find a lot of the time doesn’t really have spirit”. It is this community aspect which gives Bold Souls it’s buzzing atmosphere, uniting designers, creatives and customers alike over canapes and complimentary Kopparberg.

One year on from the last Bold Souls, Stardust promises to be bigger, better – and yes – bolder than before. Thursday 22nd November 2012 will see Flat 0/1 and Lucky 7 packed out with more than 20 stalls, where you can pick up one-off pieces from a host of local designers, both up-and-coming and established.  As Pellegrino explains: “We try to keep it colourful and diverse, everybody’s got their own style, we’re trying to have different tastes; the taste of our customers.” With such a variety of designers offering up everything from womenswear and menswear to accessories and jewellery, there really is something for everyone. Plus each item is beautifully crafted, high-quality and totally unique: this is a chance to see independent fashion at it’s best.”


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Interview: MER, the new face of Viennese Fashion?

Vanessa Hofmann ventured out of Glasgow to catch up with Vienna-based budding fashion designers Federico Protto Scutti and Attila Lajos on the creation of their label MER. They talk mermaids, mythology and give us their take on breaking into the design world.

1) Tell us a little bit about yourself: who you are and where do you come from?

Our label is called MER, it consists of me, Federico Protto Scutti, born in Uruguay, raised in Munich and my friend Attila Lajos from Hungary. Last year we both started studying fashion design at University of Applied Arts in Vienna under the professor Bernhard Willhelm.

2) How did you get started in fashion design?

After finishing high school last year I did an internship at Michael Sontag’s atelier in Berlin during Berlin Fashion Week. After that I applied in Vienna and everything went like clockwork. Attila had already started to study fashion design before in Hungary before he came to Vienna.

3) Who inspired you to become a designer, and how?

Attila’s mom made him clothing, he was the best dressed kid in the kindergarten, he had no other option than to become a fashion designer. He got also called Gucci as a kid.
I got inspired by Gwen Stefanis’ ‘What You Waiting For?’ Music video, she was wearing fantastic Vivienne Westwood Plateau High Heels. That was somehow an inspiration and motivation! But even before that I’ve always been interested in these kinds of aesthetics.

photo by shoji fujii


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Read more about the article Take a Nightwalk on the wild side
Designer: Hannah Mitchell, Model: Madeline Harvey-Brown

Take a Nightwalk on the wild side

Designer: Hannah Mitchell, Model: Madeline Harvey-Brown

Creativity and community are two buzz words on the Glasgow fashion scene; bursting at the seams with up-and-coming talent, the city boasts a colourful network of designers, models, make-up artists and hair stylists. With independent events forming a strong backbone, nothing gives fashion a bigger sense of community than a vibrant catwalk event to bring  together people from all ends of the fashion spectrum.


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GSA Fashion Show 2012

In the light of the article featured in the latest issue of GUM  on GU and GSA students interacting (or as it so happens, not interacting), I find it only too fitting that we are being given the chance, on a plate (and a fashionable one to boot), to amend this with the GSA Fashion Show. Last night consequently saw me heading over to SWG3 to have a swatch at what the GSA fashion and textile design students have to offer. (more…)

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Boyroom Blitz

One can but lament the fact the men’s day-to-day fashion mainly restricts itself to the ubiquitous Topman shirts and G-Star jeans: all too little attention is given to making men’s fashion that bit different, original or more outgoing than it actually is.


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It’s certainly true what they say about Scottish weather: it can be wet – and to add insult to injury, recent events have proven that it can get very windy too. After staunchly attempting to deny these facts, I have gradually come to sadly acquiesce when challenged by non-Scottish people and their inevitable comments about the “bad weather”. (more…)

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Market Mania

Brows furrowed, mouths foaming, eyes frantic; Christmas hysteria is about to hit the high street. Want to avoid the blistered feet and broken spirits? Here are GUM’s top pick of markets where you can bag crafts goods, vintage treats and designer pieces to give Santa a run for his money. (more…)

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Be Bold

It’s no secret that we here at GUM are fans of Bold Souls – an exciting fashion pop-up event taking Glasgow by storm. The latest instalment saw The Arches play host, providing the perfect platform for showcasing one-of-a-kind designs and vintage fare.


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